My brother and Andrew came down yesterday and took me surfing at San Onofre for my birthday (which is actually the 16th). My first time on a Doyle Board. I learned a couple of things.
1). That I've been smoking way too much and that it's probably time to quit.
2.) That I'm buying a long board at my first opportunity.
3.) That sitting on the beach in January beats the poop out of living in MN in January.
4.) That surfing is pretty much as close I can get to enlightment.
Posted by shawn at January 13, 2004 08:42 AM